Monday, April 5, 2010

After 5 weeks in the jungle














I saw my first annaconda recently. She was long and fat, swimming slowly across my trail. I was excited to finally see one up close after spending so many weeks imagining them...... and their methods of killing.


They throw a couple coils of muscle around you and one around a tree or root so they can upend you into the water. They crack ribs and dislocate joints while biting you repeatedly. They also constrict your chest so that you will have difficulty breathing in the event you manage to get your face above the water. They refrain from breaking bones lest they harm themselves whilst swallowing you whole. Yes these thoughts run through my head now and then (read "daily") as I am wading along my trail. Alone. In the dark.


The other day while walking with Chantel and her jaguar Amira (I feel like I´m cheating on Ru when I spend time with her, as she is so amazing) we bumped into a branch and onto Chantel´s shoulder plopped a yellowish snake. This caused a little bit of anxiety as she brushed it to the ground. "What kind of snake is it?" I asked in voice pitched slightly higher than normal. "I didn´t get a good look at it", she said. "And stay calm, if Amira senses you are panicky she will get agrivated. Nice one I thought, as the snake slid under the leaves, on the trail at our feet.


There are somewhere between 1 and several venemous snakes down here, depending on whom you ask. I´ve seen as many as 7 different snakes on a good day and they all inspire different reactions depending on their size, colouring, and how confidently they seem as they wriggle towards you. We have had several in camp including some in the dorms where we sleep, happily hunting rats which is a mixed blessing. All in all its there is probably more danger hitching a ride to town to use the computer than from all the jungle animals put together, save the disease carrying mosquitoes.



After 5 weeks helping my jaguar I have grown quite fond. I can read his disposition by his walk and his eyes, most of the time, and he has shown a lot of patience with me. One of my best days was spent with my cat Yaguaru in the morning and then with Yaguarupini in the afternoon. I took him for a walk with Mike, one of the longer term volunteers, and I was so captivated that I didn´t really even want to chat with Mike. He walked us very fast, with purpose and confidence, hunting along the trails that he decided on, for about 3 hours. He and my cat are the 2 biggest in the park. Ru is a mountain variety with a bigger head and heavier frame and Rupi is a jungle variety with longer legs and a more lithe build.


Rupi took me for a bit of a sprint and also gave me a few friendly jumps. He did manage to throw me down but I swear it was only because my legs were wrapped up in his rope, in other words he cheated. Unlike my cat, Rupì does not use his teeth or claws, however, and despite being forwarned that he will jump me near this tree or that other one, and despite seeing his eyes and demeanor change while 3 metres away in the foliage, there is such a surge of adrenalin, at least on my part, and afterwards a grateful humility that he can play with so much control.


I confess, I may be adicted to this.


As I said, I´ve been fortunate to walk with a jaguar named Amira 8 or 10 times, and her volunteer Chantel, whose opinions and suggestions I respect greatly. Amira is 40 or 50 kg lighter, yet gets walked with two ropes for better control due to her being less predictable and being more inlined to jump. I´ve been jumped by her many times and taken to the ground as well. However, I compare this to walking with Rupi or working with my jaguar Ru and I can safely say to you that Size Does Matter.


I have met many, many amazing volunteers in my time here. People who go hard for 60 to 80 hours a week and who contribute such a great energy to the work down here. I am constantly reminded of many of the great volunteers I work with at home and am grateful for the chance to know them all.


Still a couple weeks to go. All the best from the Bolivian jungle, Roy

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