Thursday, March 25, 2010

more jungle critters

Female Spider Monkey

My back up Jaguar, Amira who loves swimming, sometimes completely underwater and you can see her eyes as she swims towards you like a fish. I love walking with her




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jungle animals

Yaguaru, giving a little bit of affection

Ru´s eyes turn green before he jumps you as his pupils enlarge so much before the pounce.

Eyes turn green, shorts to clean




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Bolivian Amazon Feb - March 2010

I arrived 1 month ago in the belly of the Bolivian Amazon jungle, where I put up with biting insects, clothes that are never dry - let alone clean, mud and foot fungus so that I might help care for rescued wildlife. By the way it´s worth it 20 times over.

I start each day with my share of camp chores and then a solo 45 min walk along a trail flooded ankle to waist deep. My charge and I then greet each other with enthusiastic scratching and licking, I the former and he the latter. Yaguaru is a 120 kg male jaguar, rescued from a family basement a few years ago, to come here for a better life. He is playful, beautiful and can stop your heart with one significant look.

My goal here is to get him excercising more, and today marks the completion of 2 new runners or zip lines allowing him access to the river where he loves to swim. The project took much of the last 3 weeks and so a few big wigs came out today to see him swim for the first time in 6 months, buuuuuuut he decided not to swim. I suspect he was a bit excited by all the attention. He has not been "walked" outside his enclosure these past 6 months as he put a few extra holes in a previous volunteer. It´s okay though, he was French.

Ru and I struggle daily with the Alpha Male thing. He seems to think that having all those pointy bits, while being slightly quicker and larger trumps my larger brain and oposable thumbs.....I´ll keep you posted on how it all unfolds.

He has jumped me a couple times and has gnawed on the hand that feeds him fresh meat, but always playfully. I can make him yawn, he lets me pick ticks from his head(but nowhere near his abdomen), he eats grass from my hand ever so delicately which aids in digestion or make him vomit and he is quite afraid of lizards. He will never be released but maybe, just maybe, if he can learn to be outside with people without jumping on them too much, he will be "walked" again. Maybe.

I also spent 10 very excellent days "walking" with an 80 kg female jaguar named Amira, but that is a story for another day. It was really cool though.

Some of the things I am expected to do in an average day include;
Motivating a jaguar to run and jump.
Discourage a jaguar from running and jumping.
Anticipating when they are likely to pounce on you or to go running off down the trail, dragging you after a lizard or wild pig in the bushes.
Understanding how their behaviour will likely change given the change in wind, rain or temperature.
Finding new places to hide their food to encourage them to "hunt".
Finding new ways to make their day more interesting.
Finding crickets that one of our sick monkeys would like to eat.
Going out at night to retrieve a stuborn and "in heat" puma and her two handlers.
There is very little training and no literature to peruse but luckily these sort of things come quite naturally to someone who has spent time working with salmon such as I have.

Alas I have spent most of this month with two jaguars but also a bit of time with a puma and two ocelots. In all that time I have received two wounds and both of them from a miserable Macaw that I feed in the ealy morning. I am secretly hoping for a better scar which I can share with people as I get older. "Yep", I would say, pointing at the scar across my chest and neck. " That was a jaguar what got me back in 2010". Then I could retell the story over a pint of ale.

I have about 3 more weeks that I plan to help here before moving on. There is lots to do and volunteers have dropped from over 70 to about 30 in the last 4 weeks. More work but more rewards.

Until next time. Cheers from Ambue Ari, Bolivia, Roy

jjj

Yaguaru´s first day on his new "runner" which allows him access to the river for swimming and playing.....he chose not to swim this day

Ru unsure of whether to come out of his enclosure, or else he is feigning apathy so that I will come closer in order to teach me that I really don´t know anything about jaguars at all.




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Monday, February 22, 2010

Life in prison - February 2010

To escape a violent and controlling husband, Cheryl needed money. She wanted to leave South Africa and start a new life. She steeled herself to do anything.

I met Cheryl here in La Paz, in the women´s prison and have spent much of the last several days visiting with her. She is a very frank and engaging person and has experienced more than most in the past 26 months. She accepts full resposibility for her actions and told me about her life before and during her time in prison.

A friend of her husband agreed to give her $5,000 if she would trasport 2 suitcases from La Paz to Mallorca, Spain. She agreed, flew here, rented a room and awaited instructions. She was given $500 for expenses and told to purchase enough clothing to fill the suitcases which arrived at her room, seemingly, empty. The cocaine was pressed flat between carbon paper to fool X-Rays, then covered in coffee syrup to fool the dogs and hidden in the base of each suitcase. Foolproof.

After 5 days in La Paz she took her suitcases to the airport and was boarding the plane when she was pulled aside. She remembers the name of the beautiful but well trained golden lab which was running back and forth between her two bags on the tarmac. She denied the bags were hers however, the luggage tags matched those on her boarding pass. The customs agent fired up a chainsaw and ran it through her luggage sending white powder everywhere.

I tried and failed, 3 times, to bribe my way into the men´s prison here, after reading/hearing about how interesting it is inside. Then I learned about a white lady busted for smuggling so decided I would ask to visit her and am glad I did. Cheryl thanks God that she was busted in Bolivia instead of Europe or USA where she would recieve 10 to 20 years in a hard prison. Or in Asia where she could be executed for smuggling 8kg of cocaine worth over $500,000 on the resort beaches of Spain.

Her life is not all that bad she says, considering. She is locked up at night, to sleep, but during the day can wander around the prison, sit in a courtyard, take classes, purchase food in a restaurant, go to church or sit in her little "suite" to watch a DVD, cook, read, or listen to music.

On the occasions I came to visit we would sit outside and order lunch or a drink off one of the prisoners licenced to sell food. The banana smoothies are pretty good. Several of the ladies had children. They were running and playing and arguable better off in prison with their mothers than outside, orphaned on the street, like so many others. Cheryl misses her english speaking friend, a Philipino lady who was released a few weeks ago. She has not had visitors and her family has not been to see her, though her parents send her enough money to cover her expenses. She has 3 boys, with her first husband, from 15 to 23 and is not sure if they even know her situation.

Cheryl has been imprisoned for 2 years and 2 months though she has yet to be tried or convicted. She gave $4,000 to her lawyer, with assurances that this would be enough to pay her way out. It was all she could raise and he simply put it in his pocket leaving her angry and broke and vulnerable. Like all the prisoners, she must pay for everything inside. She must rent her room from the prison, though they deny this to Amnesty International, Prisoners Abroad and other interested groups. She purchases her food, toilet paper, and a shower costs 30 cents. She has had over a dozen visits to court. Each time she is acompanied by 2 police. She pays taxi costs and if it occurs over lunch then she pays for lunch for her guards too. To see a doctor it´s the same. Pay for the taxi, consultation fee and any meds she might need.

If a prisoner does not have family to send money, they must find a way to get it. Some steal, some find a job in the prison, others manufacture cocaine which they export, usually stuffed into condoms and hidden up inside their older children, who leave to attend school. The condoms are provided by a church group, trying to prevent women from becoming pregnant or infected while in prison.

Cheryl doesn´t speak much spanish and there are no other english speakers in prison so she was quite grateful for the company and conversation. I brought her some things she can´t get inside, like english books and movies, make-up and some fresh fruits. 3 limes is the maximum however, as people inject them with alchohol to take inside. I wish I could share a photo with you but cameras are forbidden and perhaps it´s best.

My visit yesterday was my last, sadly, as I´m leaving for the Amazon jungle today. I went to the prison with a few other backpackers who were interested to meet with her and they enjoyed their time as much as she did. With luck this will continue. People going to visit with her and telling others who do the same. It´s a chance to give something to someone in need, while learning a little bit about life in Bolivia in return.

Cheers, Roy